Among New Orleanians
fortunate enough not to have lost a loved one
to Hurricane Katrina, few took as big a hit
as Lloyd Frischhertz, an attorney and co-captain
of the Krewe of Tucks.
Before the storm,
he and his family were preparing to move into
a home he had just had build in Lakeview. His
existing residence, also in Lakeview, was under
contract to be sold. His mother and son-in-law
occupied one of two other properties he owned
in the neighborhood. When Katrina unleashed
a surge from Lake Pontchartrain, causing a breach
in the floodwall along the 17th Street Canal,
all four homes were inundated. Lacking adequate
flood insurance, Frischhertz, whose brothers
and sisters also lost their homes, figures Katrina
cost him about $1 million in lost property value.
Although debate
about the fate of Mardi Gras 2006 began raging
almost as soon as the floodwaters receded, Frischhertz,
who along with Robert Reichert founded Tucks
in 1969, was hardly in a position to join the
fray. For the first month or so after the storm,
he says, he was “just trying to lick my
wounds,” while scrambling to get his law
practice back up and running and find housing
for his immediate and extended families. (He
wound up buying a house and finding temporary
office space in Baton Rouge.)
But it was just
a matter of time before Frischhertz, who says
he is committed to New Orleans and plans to
rebuild in Lakeview, would cast his lot with
those seeking to revive the Mardi Gras spirit,
which he equates with optimism and positive
thinking. By October, he was attending meetings
of the Mayor’s Mardi Gras Advisory Council,
a group comprised mainly of krewe captains and
city officials who help set the agenda for the
festivities. While the captains, who are by
nature Mardi Gras die-hards, were
unanimously
in favor of proceeding with the celebration,
the prospect of revelry amid the ruins struck
some as ill advised, if not a slap in the face.
“People
were saying, “How can you have Mardi Gras,”
recalls Frischhertz, with the large swaths of
the city devastated, basic services severely
impaired, municipal finances in tatters and
residents scattered far and wide?
Nevertheless,
six months after Katrina — and after much
soul-searching, negotiating and, finally, compromise
among city officials and krewe leaders —
the stage is set for a Mardi Gras unlike any
other. Steeped in meaning and fraught with emotion,
it has become a crucial milestone for the city
post-Katrina.
“It’s
a shame what the people have been through down
here, but at some point the funeral has got
to get over and the recovery has got to begin,”
says Ed Muniz, captain of the Krewe of Endymion.
“And most people decided the recovery
would begin with Mardi Gras.”
The stakes are
high not only in terms of the city’s ability
to recover being put to the test. Mardi Gras
2006 is attracting an unprecedented media frenzy,
putting New Orleans under a microscope as reporters
from around the world vie to glean insights
into the post-Katrina psyche of the (albeit
much reduced) populace and dissect the merits
of proceeding with “The Greatest Free
Show on Earth.” Which is causing no small
amount of trepidation among local cognoscenti
about how the city’s signature celebration
will be portrayed: as a frivolous and excessive
exercise in bad taste, considering the dire
circumstances wrought by the hurricane, or a
nuanced personification of an extraordinarily
rich vernacular culture and singularly vivacious
spirit, which refuses to be smothered by a nasty
hussy named Katrina?
As well, there’s
concern about Mardi Gras sending mixed signals.
As Anne Rochell Konigsmark recently observed
in USA Today: “Even as New Orleans makes
every attempt to look pretty and party-ready,
it wants the world to remember how broken things
remain.” The article went on to quote
Christian Brown, a member of Rex, one of the
oldest and most high-profile Mardi Gras krewes:
“We want to say to the federal government,
‘We need your help.’ But we also
want to send a message to come on down. We’re
fine.”
In
fact, many New Orleanians — feeling frustrated
and abandoned, like orphans in their own country
— are coming to view Mardi Gras as a sort
of antidote to what is perceived as a woefully
inadequate government response to the disaster.
For them, Mardi Gras is a way to take control
of their own destiny. “Why should we wait
any longer?” asks Frischhertz. “Why
shouldn’t we heal ourselves?”
Part of that
healing involves catharsis, and Mardi Gras provides
an ideal coping mechanism — a vehicle
for finding humor in tragedy while also taking
satirical aim at Katrina and venting frustration
at governmental ineptitude. Indeed, while Mardi
Gras has long served as a forum for ridicule
and topical commentary, perhaps never before
in its long and storied history — 2006
marks the 150th anniversary of the first organized
Mardi Gras parade in New Orleans — has
there been such an abundance of ripe fodder
for poking fun.
And in fact,
the first parade of the season offered a strong
indication that thanks to Katrina, and all the
pain and suffering it has inflicted on New Orleans,
irreverence will reach a new, er, high-water
mark this Mardi Gras.
The Krewe du
Vieux, a satirical parading organization comprised
of 17 units, or “sub-kewes,” chose
as its theme “C’est Levee,”
a play on the French phrase meaning “such
is life.” Delighted throngs of mostly
local spectators hooted and hollered as the
procession made its way through the Marigny
district and the historic French Quarter, with
each sub-krewe presenting its own uniquely twisted
take on all things Katrina-related.
The Krewe of
PAN, with a float entitled “Buy Us Back,
Chirac!” offered a plea for France to
reverse the Louisiana Purchase as a way to address
U.S. government concerns about the tremendous
cost of rebuilding New Orleans. Members of the
Knights of MONDU donned individually decorated
refrigerator headpieces — metaphors for
the stench of failed leadership — while
the Krewe of Mama Roux presented “Home
is Where the Tarp Is,” with members costumed
in the ubiquitous blue material that protects
damaged roofs throughout the city. (According
to the Krewe du Vieux’s Monde de Merde
newsletter, Mama Roux obtained “a special
discount” on the material from “a
FEMA sub-sub-sub-sub-sub contractor for a mere
$985 per yard.”)
The Krewe of
K.A.O.S. (Kommittee for the Aggravation of Organized
Society) lampooned former Federal Emergency
Management Agency Director Michael Brown, a.k.a.
“Brownie,” with the theme “K.A.O.S.
Rules FEMA.” Its unadorned float featured
an empty throne with a sign announcing that
Brown, anointed as grand marshal by the krewe,
was “out to dinner.” Other signs
on the float promised that decorations, beads
and were "on the way.”
The Krewe du
Vieux, with approximately 900 members, couldn’t
come close to accommodating everyone who wanted
to participate in this year’s parade,
because of public safety issues relating to
the number of people who could be moved safely
through the French Quarter. According to Keith
Twitchell, the krewe’s “Poobah of
Publicity,” the groundswell of interest
spoke to the strong desire on the part of New
Orleanians for a creative outlet that offered
the opportunity to make a statement, and for
a much-needed break from pain and heartache.
“Being
able to laugh about ourselves, being to laugh
at our plight, even as we do everything in our
power to deal with it, actually makes us more
effective,” he points out. “If you
never lighten up, sooner or later the load just
wears you down.”
The
Krewe du Vieux also seemed to provide a welcome
release for spectators, who turned out in surprisingly
large numbers — finding a parking spot
anywhere near the French Quarter was virtually
impossible — despite temperatures in the
low 40s. Not necessarily what you’d expect
in a city supposedly still missing two-thirds
of its pre-Katrina residents.
“The energy in the crowds was phenomenal,
the smiles on people’s faces were amazing,”
says Twitchell. “If there was any question
about whether or not we should be having Mardi
Gras, I think it was resoundingly answered on
Saturday night.”
There was never
really any doubt Mardi Gras would take place
in New Orleans; it was just a question of scale.
When a police strike forced the cancellation
of parades in 1979, revelers still jammed the
French Quarter on Fat Tuesday. The uncertainly
surrounding Mardi Gras 2006 hinged on the extent
to which the beleaguered city government would
facilitate the most recognized public manifestation
of the festivities: “official” parades
on public streets featuring floats, marching
bands, dance troupes and other supporting “units.”
While these krewe pageants are privately funded
by dues-paying members, the city issues the
necessary permits, coordinates scheduling and
routes, plus picks up the tab for police protection,
sanitation and related services.
According to
figures provided to the New Orleans Times-Picayune
by William Grace, a former Rex who chairs the
Mayor’s Mardi Gras Advisory Council, the
city normally would spend about $4 million to
$5 million on police overtime and other Mardi
Gras-related services. But the festivities would
generate $40 million to $45 million in direct
tax revenue, about $20 million to $25 million
of which would flow into city coffers.
Post-Katrina,
even if the city could find a way to trim its
Mardi Gras expenses, coming up with the necessary
funding posed a serious challenge. Despite having
laid-off some 3,000 workers, or nearly half
of its work force, the city is essentially bankrupt.
With its tax base washed away by Katrina, it
has been relying on the good graces of bankers
to cover operating expenses.
Other factors
compounded the challenge of hosting Mardi Gras:
Reduced ranks in the police force; battered
medical facilities and other essential infrastructure;
a skeleton tourism work force; and limited availability
of hotel rooms (many of which are occupied by
relief workers, contractors and insurance adjusters).
Moreover, negotiations
about Mardi Gras were being played out in the
context of a broader debate about the future
of the city itself. A large percentage of the
city’s black population was displaced
by the hurricane, raising the prospect that
New Orleans could lose the wellspring of its
Afrocentric cultural identity, which has nurtured
its Mardi Gras Indian, marching band and second-line
traditions. If the Lower Ninth Ward and other
once-vibrant, predominantly black neighborhoods
aren’t rebuilt, New Orleans could become
a Disneyesque charicature of itself with daiquiris
but nowhere near as much soul as before.
By inflicting
so much suffering on the city’s underclass,
Katrina also laid bare a racial and economic
chasm that made discussions about devoting scarce
resources to Mardi Gras particularly touchy.
Bishop TD Jakes struck a nerve in this regard
during a sermon at a prayer service for victims
of Katrina, at the Washington National Cathedral
in September. Witih President Bush looking on,
Bishop Jakes — described by The New York
Times as “one of the nation’s most
influential and mesmerizing preachers”
— intoned that the storm “has made
us think and look and reach beyond the breach
and dare to discuss the unmentionable issues
that confront us…. This can no longer
be a nation that overlooks the poor and the
suffereing and
continues
past the ghetto on our way to the Mardi Gras.”
Against this
backdrop, it was hardly surprising that the
city’s decision to proceed with Mardi
Gras sparked controversy. This became particularly
apparent in December, at a town hall meeting
in Atlanta where New Orleans Mayor Ray Nagin
addressed citizens displaced by Katrina. As
reported in Gambit Weekly, “displaced
New Orleanian Betty Gaynor deplored Nagin's
decision to proceed with Carnival 2006. ‘How
can we be having Mardi Gras and we aren't even
there?’ Gaynor asked, referring to the
inability of thousands of evacuees to move back
home. A large crowd of other evacuees roared
in agreement as Nagin responded: ‘I went
before the tourist industry and the lieutenant
governor and all those folks. They are of the
mindset that we need to hold Mardi Gras to get
the economy going again...’ Voices in
the audience yelled: ‘Oh no! Oh no!’
‘I was against it; I was against it,’
the mayor told the crowd, emphatically.”
If Mardi Gras
personifies the festive spirit of New Orleans,
tourism is its life blood. And by far the most
important cog in the tourism economy is not
Mardi Gras, but rather the conventions and meetings
trade. In trumping Nagin and winning the support
of the New Orleans City Council, movers and
shakers in Mardi Gras and the tourism industry,
backed by Leiutenant Governor Mitch Landrieu,
combined to make a powerful force in the heated
negotiations over the fate of Mardi Gras post-Katrina.
“New Orleans
survives on convention business,” says
Frischhertz, adding: “Mardi Gras is a
coming-out party and a statement to convention
planners: ‘Come back, we can handle you.’
“
Call it Mardi
Gras as PR tool. The New Orleans Tourism Marketing
Corp., which is funded by a city hotel tax,
is aggressively promoting Mardi Gras to media
outlets. The purpose, says NOTMC spokesman Larry
Lovell, is twofold: to 1) announce to the world
that New Orleans is open for business and capable
of hosting big events, and 2) replace negative
Katrina media images of fires, flooding, looting
and suffering with “wonderful photos of
New Orleans hosting this beautiful, incredible
major event that’s directly tired to our
culture and heritage.”
Of
course, the risk of having the media spotlight
on Mardi Gras is that any negative activity
— such as violence, confrontations with
housing-rights activists or ugly instances of
drunken bufoonery on Bourbon Street —
will be broadcast around the world. “We’re
under a microscope,” admits float builder
Blaine Kern Sr., who is also captain of the
Krewe of Alla. “I hope nothing goes wrong,
good God almighty.”
So what kind
of Mardi Gras is in store for all the world
to see, post-K? A somewhat scaled-down version,
to be sure. But a palpable sense of poignance
should more than compensate for any lack of
extravagance or versimultitude. This is especially
true for displaced locals who plan to make the
festivities a homecoming, reuniting friends
and families.
Parades will
take place over eight days, from Feb. 18 –
19 and Feb. 23 – 28, as opposed to the
traditional 12. Parades will roll in tandem,
in tight formations with fewer marching bands.
Flambeaux, as well as support units such as
dance troupes and mounted posses, will be scaled
back. Thoth, Zulu and Endymion, whose identities
are closely associated with their traditional
routes, will follow more or less the same route
along St. Charles Ave. as every other parade.
All of these
changes are the result of compromises aimed
at reducing police overtime and other costs.
After Katrina ravaged its finances, the city
had hoped to defray most of its costs by signing
up corporate sponsors. The sponsorship proposal,
unveiled in December, was carefully crafted
to avoid running afoul of a city ordinance prohibiting
the commercialization of Carnival. Offering
title sponsorship, in which a company’s
name would appear before the words “Mardi
Gras,” was ruled out, as was allowing
the names of companies or brands to appear on
floats. Such restrictions apparently turned
off would-be underwriters, although the city
did manage to sign up a maker of trash bags,
Glad Products Co. (In addition to contributing
a still-unspecified six-figure sum. Glad will
donate 100,000 trash bags and coordinate volunteers
for Mardi Gras cleanup.)
Two days before
the first “official” parades of
the season were scheduled to roll, the New Orleans
City Council voted 7-0 to spend $2.7 million
on police overtime and other Carnival-related
expenses. “Council members offered no
thoughts on where the nearly broke city will
find the cash, chosing to spend now and worry
later,” noted a report in the Times-Picayune.
Some krewes
are facing financial strains of their own, or
simply don’t have enough depth in their
membership or leadership ranks to mount a parade
in the wake of disaster that displaced so many
citizens. Or they’ve decided that the
most appropriate option, given the hardship
Katrina has imposed, is to take a year off.
In any case, Oshun, Druids, Saturn, Cleopatra,
Nomtoc are absent from this year’s schedule.
Bards of Bohemia cancelled its parade at the
last minute, because it couldn’t obtain
liability insurance. And some smaller krewes
on the schedule, determined to parade despite
reduced membership rosters, will roll with just
a handful of floats.
By
contrast, the largest krewe in Mardi Gras, Endymion,
will have no less than 2,160 riders, up from
last year’s record 2,138, according to
Muniz. More members are taking a leave of absense
than ever before, however: at least 350, versus
around 200 in an average year. Endymion allows
members taking leave to recruit a substitute,
who pays a $100 fee to become a member for a
year. This year, says Muniz, “they were
able to replace themselves with absolutely no
problem.”
Perhaps
now more than ever, many locals view participating
in Mardi Gras as a civic duty — an affirmation
of love for New Orleans and its grandest and
most cheirshed tradition. This spirit also is
yielding some notable acts of benificence. The
Krewe of Tucks used a party in honor of its
queen as an occasion to raise funds for the
New Orleans Musicians Clinic, a non-profit organization
helping musicians with medical and housing expenses.
The all-female Krewe of Muses made a $50,000
donation to help cover the cost of police overtime
pay for Mardi Gras. A newly formed group called
the Canal Street Parade Preservation Alliance
— which includes the local hospitality
group New Orleans Fine Hotels, the Chateau Sonesta
hotel and the restaurant group Dickie Brennan
& Co. — followed suit, donating $56,000
to the police department to help defray Mard
Gras-related public saftey expenses.
Thanks to Kern,
20 authentic African Zulu warriors, donning
their traditional costumes, shields and spears,
will appear as a headline feature in the Zulu
parade on Fat Tuesday. The Mardi Gras impresario,
who supplies floats and throws for the Zulu
parade, says he was motivated by losses experienced
by the 90-year-old, historically black club.
(Ten Zulu members died during or after Katrina,
and most members lost their homes to the storm.
Its clubhouse on Broad Street also flooded.)
“I felt
it was important that I try to bring some entertainment
back for them, something that would point up
their plight,” explains Kern, who traveled
to South Africa on his own dime to find people
who could serve as liaisons in contacting Zulu
leaders. Richard Loring, a well-known musical
producer in South Africa and an old acquaintance
of Kern’s; and Felicia Suttle, a South
African tourism promoter in New York, helped
make the necessary arrangements. A company for
which Kern does marketing work, Diageo Liquor
Co., distributor of Captain Morgan Rum, is underwriting
the Mardi Gras appearance by the Zulu warriors,
who will perform a dance in which they clash
spears and stomp the ground.