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In New Orleans, a city that prides itself on its distinctive culture and folkways, the disappearance of local traditions and landmarks is cause for nostalgic rumination tinged with sadness. This seems almost painfully true in instances involving food and shopping, and indeed, “Ain’t Dere No More”—the title of a song by Benny "Grunch" Antinmemorializing local establishments that no longer exist—has become an oft-heard lament.
K&B and its Creole cream cheese ice cream may be gone, and you can no longer make groceries at Schwegmann’s or meet your honey under the clock of the D.H. Holmes department store. But not all that has been lost is gone for good.
Generations of local patrons were adamant about the deliciously tender king cakes from Lawrence’s Bakery, a popular destination in the Gentilly neighborhood for more than half a century. Founded by Lawrence Aiavolasiti, known as Mr. Wedding Cake, in 1947, Lawrence’s was throwback to an era before the mass marketing of machine-molded, conveyor-belt king cakes by the likes of Wal-Mart and supermarket chains. Dough was made from scratch and hand braided with just the right amount of cinnamon. Fresh from the ovens, the festive oval confections were a sensation during the Carnival season, and the bakery began express shipping them nationwide in 1987.
Alas, ownership changed hands, and Lawrence’s never reopened after the devastation wrought by Hurricane Katrina…another beloved New Orleans institution gone by the wayside. But the legend of Lawrence’s king cake refused to die, perhaps in part because New Orleanians, post Katrina, have clung more tightly than ever to homegrown traditions.
Heeding the call for the revival of a cherished recipe and an artisan style of baking, David Magri, who ran Lawrence’s in its king cake heyday, is now back in the mix, as Mr. King Cake.
Sure, you can find king cakes that cost less. But changes are they’ll have been mass-produced from pre-made frozen dough. At Mr. King Cake, every component—dough, glaze and fondant-style icing—is made from scratch. And every piece of dough is braided, cut and molded by hand.
“Ours just come out better,” says Magri, “and we take personal pride in each cake. Everybody that’s working on the bench at nighttime, they like hand braiding and making ’em come out perfect. They actually get excited when they come out of the oven.”
Mr. King Cake’s toothsome treats are baked fresh daily and shipped via UPS Air Saver, to insure proper handling and timely delivery.
Choose from traditional or cream cheese filled, with or without accoutrements (Mardi Gras beads, doubloons and Arthur Hardy’s Mardi Gras Guide). Order now—and savor the revival of a genuine New Orleans tradition!


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